The annual school shoe shopping trip always came with a search for the most fashionable shoes my eight year old eyes could spot. Oftentimes they would be a classic Mary-Jane black leather, square toe, and buckle strap.
After I left primary school, the staple Mary Jane also left my wardrobe. Yet, recently, I can’t help but notice that they have not only resurfaced in my wardrobe but they’re everywhere in St Andrews. Blue velvet, gold, patent red, or classic black, Mary Jane shoes are back with a bang.
The Mary Jane shoes date back to the early 1900s, first made in Missouri they were named after the cartoon character Mary Jane from the comic strip Buster Brown. Originally, the shoes were popular amongst both sexes and were a staple for both children’s school outfits and church attire. The shoes transitioned to becoming popular amongst adults during the 1960s as icons such as Jane Birkin and Twiggy began to wear them.
As the 1990s came around and grunge fashion became increasingly popular, Mary Janes became a staple across fashion as a wide spectrum. The 2010s were no different. The rise of ‘indie sleaze’ and it-girls like Alexa Chung saw the Mary Jane being sold in every high street retailer. As 2014 fashion became cringe rather than cool, Mary Janes began to dwindle in popularity and yet now they’re back, but why?
Credit: Unsplash/Sindy Sussengut.
Mary Jane shoes might be so popular here in St Andrews because of what they emblematically represent. Our associations with Mary Jane shoe are usually from childhood – a time commonly thought to be more freer, fun and joyful. We so often desire the fearlessness and untarnished view of the world we had when we were kids.
Now, despite the amazing experience university provides, we’re plagued by constant anxieties over what others think of us. Is our outfit cool enough? What new items do we need in our wardrobes? Faced with these emotions, it's natural to be drawn to pieces that remind us of our childhood.
Remember wearing princess Halloween costumes around time all year round? Well, we might we not be confident enough to do that now. But, we may be inclined to wear the Mary Janes that we paired with said princess costume. Picking out the perfect material or colour of the iconic shoe can paint a little mark of that same childhood joy we all strive for – even in a monochromatic outfit.
Really, Mary Janes are just the tip of the iceberg in a wider pattern of fashion becoming increasingly cyclical. A decade ago, fashion would take about thirty years to come back into style. Post-pandemic, the trend cycle has sped up at a pace impossible to catch up with.
Within one week, several ‘cores’ will become TikTok’s latest obsession. This is to Mary Janes' undeniable benefit. As indie sleaze, classic Parisian style and 1960s vintage fashion become popular amongst different groups, the unifying symbol of the Mary Jane shines.
It is the Mary Jane's versatility and variety which allows its timeless presence in the fashion market. On a campus like St Andrews, with such variety in its favoured aesthetics, it is no surprise that the Mary Jane is such a staple amongst students.
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